![]() oil pressure warning light is waiting on heat shrink I keep finding I don't have the bits I need to finish stuff. Right now they are safety wired open, but I need to hook them up properly.Ģ0201118_074631-resized-1024.jpg (216.79 KiB) Viewed 14954 times 003.JPG (345.52 KiB) Viewed 14954 times The quieter muffler should be good for 250-300hp which will handle all normal driving, then above that the gates of H_ll will open. There are valves on the loud muffler and I have a solenoid valve that will open /close them. I have 4 mufflers, 2 quiet (ish) and 2 loud. I added some code to make the "slow down" light basically a check engine light that currently comes on with low oil pres, low fuel pre, high water temp.I'll add misfire and such later.ġ of the unused HS outs is for exhaust valves. Tonight I connected the water temp gauge to the ECU and almost the low oil pressure light.but I ran out of heat shrink tubing to cover the splice (I had to cut the wire back as the OEM insulation was swelled and no longer fits in the ECU connector). ![]() If I believe the 2 additional coils in FW are never coming I could take the 4 unused coil outs bur they are very low power HS on/off outputs so not very useful. The DBW I messed with tonight and couldn't quite get them doing what I want but I have a couple more ideas to try.hoping to get 2 usable outputs there. So looking thought everything, I have 0 LS, 1 HS and the DBW output left. anyone have a good (aka low cost) solution for steering position?Ģ0201115_170140-resized-1024.jpg (281 KiB) Viewed 15060 times Then another 3 wire labeled steering so it looks like I was planning to add a steering angle/position sensor for logging I guess I was thinking. I show a clutch and brake pedal, I probably thought they would be good for traction and/or launch control.a couple of the orange wires I guess. My wiring pinout shows white/yellow as the "slow down" light there are 3 2 conductor.I'll make one CAN to make future work easy, you know, now that I'm a CAN system master Looking up front I see a couple long 3 conductor wires.must be wheel speed, easy. I connecter the rear axle reads the speedo sensor and that end was wired, now it goes to the ecu. Trying to work through some of these wires. It got a 100k 5V pullup at the ECU so it sees a pretty stable load.maybe log it and take action if its drifting. I'll take a look.but I'm honestly leaning toward leaving it as-is. Now I'm pretty sure the 5V pullup is causing voltage reading not to drop quite as low as it should, but that I can and did calibrate and now the MAP is about 1.5kPa above the cylinder reading at atmosphere, and about 1kPa high at the most vacuum I could enty close enough (red and orange lines)Ĭircuit edit.JPG (129.49 KiB) Viewed 15080 times multiMAP fixed.JPG (161 KiB) Viewed 15080 times What's buggering this is the isolation amp, why is beyond my very limited abilities but it it the issue.but, this thing is a pretty dead simple analog circuit, I just moved the output wire to bypass the amp and its pretty much fixed. ![]() The analog inputs on the ECU all have a 100k 5V pullup so when they are not connected to anything they read 5V which while often very helpful its buggering my NBO2 sensor reading and I thought maybe this too.but no. Hmmmm.where's the circuit drawing, this is normally where I get myself into trouble because, yeah, I suck at electronics, but not today. Hmmmmmm.Pulled the wire out of the ECU connector and check with a meter.same answer The purple is the multiMAP output, it doesn't track right and never goes below 1.3V, but by 1.4V its not longer tracking right at all, so while it could read to about 37kPa, 40 kPa it had really lost any hope of calibration. ![]() The blue is MAP1 voltage, which I confirmed with a meter, its right. MultiMAP.JPG (169.27 KiB) Viewed 15080 times
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